Sunday, 13 March 2016

The Artisans of Angkor

Artisans Angkor is a Cambodian social business creating job opportunities for young people in rural areas, while reviving traditional Khmer craftsmanship (stone and wood carving, painting on statues and on silk, lacquering, and silver plating).  The organisation, founded in 1992, is located on Stung Thmey Street, 2 minutes walk from the Old Market in Siem Reap center, Cambodia.  Two sites are open to the public in Siem Reap – one specializing in crafts located on Stung Thmey Street and the other specializing in silk at the Angkor Silk Farm (20mins drive from Siem Reap center, in Puok district).  In December of 2015, during Christmas break, we were fortunate enough to visit both of these sites and witness the incredible artistry of the men and women working here.


The Artisans of Angkor main workshops are just down the street from the Golden Temple Villa, and amazing hotel I stayed at earlier in December, when I came to Siem Reap for the Angkor Wat Half Marathon...it was fun to revisit this area of town.  The tour here is free, and the guides are so friendly and knowledgeable (they deserve, and did receive a really good tip).  During both my visits to Siem Reap, I was constantly amazed by the level of English in this town...everyone seems to speak English, and not just broken, simple language, but fluent with a great vocabulary.  It is VERY impressive! 


Many of the workers and artisans have physical disabilities - one of the reasons they struggle to find employment, and so sign language is commonly used to communicate.  We found the Khmer writing fascinating.


We learned that two types of wood are used for woodworking.   Wood from a rubber tree, which is lighter in colour and lighter in weight, and teak wood, which is much darker and heavier.  The kids were really drawn in to the work of these artists. 


Lacquered painting of the Monkey King.



One of Eva's favourites, a silver plated bird - so pretty.



Watching and learning about the silver plating process.


Wood carving - elephants.


Stone carving - we acquired a real appreciation for all the ornate stone carvings we saw on the temples.  The process is incredibly labour intensive and lengthy.




Viktor, learning about the wood carving process.




Eva, posing with the Aspara dancers.
We took a brief break for lunch, but at 1pm we boarded the bus to visit the Angkor Silk Farm, in Puok District.  Again, the bus and the tour were free, and incredibly interesting.  We did purchase some items from the gift shops, as all the proceeds go right back into the workshops and apprenticeships.  We learned that the women at the silk farm (and this most likely applies to all the artisans) work 8 hours a day, and are paid the equivalent of $10 USD/month...yes, I had to ask twice, because I thought I misunderstood.  According to our guide their working conditions and compensation are much better, than other workers in their field.  I still find it very hard to believe, but after witnessing the simplicity of life, the bare necessities these beautiful people survive with and poverty of the general population, I do believe it. It really made us stop and think about the excesses and luxuries we have in North America and other developed countries around the world.  We take so many things for granted.


Women sorting the cocoons. 




The houses are built on stilts that are surrounded by water.  If I remember correctly, it's to ensure that no spiders crawl into the houses and damage the silk worms and their cocoons.


The life cycle of a silk worm.


Real, live silk worms.




Drying of the cocoon, and yes, they do have to kill the worms inside in order to harvest strong, unbroken silk thread.



Unravelling the cocoons to harvest the silk.  The silk worms are being cooked inside the cocoons during this process...


  ...and now they can be eaten...


Yes, we all tried one - except for David.


Tastes sort of like cheesy tofu, not my favourite protein source.  An acquired taste, I think. 
A picture is worth a thousand words.


Learning about natural dyes.  Mother Nature is incredible!


The dying process. 


Curry seeds, used as red dye, and a great natural makeup.


Weaving.


Beautiful colours and patterns.


Viktor, testing out the colour of the curry seeds.





Beautiful natural colours of Cambodian silk.





Checking out the displays of traditional Khmer masks and costumes.


 Women workers.



 Getting on the bus to head back to Siem Reap.
It was a perfect day.  So interesting and a really good change of pace from all the temple touring.  We gained a sincere appreciation for the artistry and precision of the workers and artisans in Siem Reap.

Saturday, 5 March 2016

A night at the Saigon Opera House

The Saigon Opera House

Just got home from a great night out at the Municipal Theatre of Ho Chi Minh City, also known as Saigon Opera House (Vietnamese: Nhà hát lớn Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh; French: Opėra de Saigon) It is an example of French Colonial architecture in Vietnam.

Built in 1897 by French architect Eugène Ferret as the Opėra de Saigon, the 800 seat building was used as the home of the Lower House assembly of South Vietnam after 1956. It was not until 1975 that it was again used as a theatre, and restored in 1995.

We dressed up for the night. ..sort  of  ;-) and were excited to meet many fellow CIS staff and families for the show,  which was a fundraiser put on by the Korean Children's Choir with guest performances by the Saigon Lady Singers (with such beautiful voices), our very own Mr. Mark Bell and the CIS Junior Choir , Little Light Choir, Mass Choir, HBSO Ensemble. The proceeds from the concert are going towards scholarships for the children of musicians and artists.

The music was great,  and the atmosphere was very family friendly. ..so many kids in the audience!  I was actually sitting next to a lady holding a little baby,  and he played and smiled and nursed all evening. He was so cute. At intermission the kids were given free snacks. ..choco pies and yogurt drinks. ..they were so excited.  The second half of the concert included a lot of traditional cultural songs and dances from around the world. It was so nice to get out to soak up some music and culture. ..it really is food for the soul.
Inside the Saigon Opera House.

Captivated audience :-)

The beautiful Saigon Lady Singers with the HBSO and the Korean Children's Chior.
Snack time at intermission.

Beautiful flowers everywhere.

The program.

Monday, 15 February 2016

Sunrise at Angkor Wat and Temples Galore

We decided to spend two days exploring the temples of Angkor. It was awesome. We rode from Siem Reap to Angkor by tuk tuk. It was actually our only mode of transportation for the entire week,  other than getting around on foot in the center of Siem Reap.

On our first day exploring the temples we did the small circle. The highlights being Bayon Temple, Prah Thom (the Tomb Raider temple), Elephant Terrace and other architectural wonders of past peoples.

Day two of our trip was spent exploring the town of Siem Reap and the Artisans of Angkor (next post will highlights this day).

Day three of our  trip  started at 4am. We were to be down for breakfast at 4:30 where the staff of our hotel packed us a breakfast to go.  We had actually ordered it the night before and this is quite standard practice, because there are hundreds of tourists that come to greet  the sun at Angkor Wat every morning. ..365 days a year. The kids got up relatively quickly, only David provided some entertaining protests. ..as we were leaving the hotels,  he said. .."you know,  this is way out of my comfort zone. " My answer to him was, " good, because that's how you grow and experience new things." It was early.  But it was so worth it.

Angkor Wat (Khmer: អង្គរវត្ត or "Capital Temple") is a temple complex in Cambodia and the largest religious monument in the world, with site measuring 162.6 hectares (1,626,000 sq meters). It was originally constructed as a Hindu temple for the Khmer Empire, gradually transforming into a Buddhist temple toward the end of the 12th century.It was built by the Khmer King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century.  Angkor Wat combines two basic plans of Khmer temple architecture: the temple-mountain and the later galleried temple. It is designed to represent Mount Meru, home of the devas in Hindu mythology: within a moat and an outer wall 3.6 kilometres (2.2 mi) long are three rectangular galleries, each raised above the next.  The modern name, Angkor Wat, means "Temple City" or "City of Temples" in Khmer
 
Sunrise at Angkor Wat

The masses of people that flock to see the sunrise 365 days a year! 

Breakfast picnic at Angkor Wat




The view from the top.

Taking in the ancient historical stone carvings.


Exploring the Cambodian countryside by tuk tuk on our way to Banteay Srei.



Beautiful Banteay Srei - just over 20 km from Angkor, almost at the foot of the Kulen Mountains.
The name means "Citadel of Women" or  "Citadel of Beauty", which refers to its size and delicacy of the decoration.  It in perhaps the most ornate of all temples in this region.








Snack time - fresh mango and pineapple



Preah Khan - a temple which was massive in size, and with 1000 teachers, was seen as a university city.

Many of the temples have been reclaimed by the jungle and have huge trees and roots growing around them.  It is an awesome sight to see and a testament to the power of nature. 


The hole in the wall is designed to let light in an be the flame of the candle.




Sunday, 14 February 2016

Siem Reap

Siem Reap (Khmer: ក្រុងសៀមរាប,pronounced [siəm riəp]; Thai: เสียมราฐ) is the capital city of Siem Reap Province in northwestern Cambodia, and a popular resort town as the gateway to Angkor region.
It was very interesting to learn from one of our guides that the name Siem Reap actually means "defeat of the Siemese", referring to the time in history when the Siemese were driven out by the Cambodians.
Siem Reap has colonial and Chinese-style architecture in the Old French Quarter, and around the Old Market. In the city, there are museums, traditional Apsara dance performances, a Cambodian cultural village, souvenir and handycraft shops, silk farms, rice-paddies in the countryside, fishing villages and a bird sanctuary near the Tonle Sap Lake.
Honestly...there was so much to do...and so much to EAT and so little time. ..We tasted many interesting and delicious things during our time here. Siem Reap today is a a major tourist town,  because it is the gateway to the Angkor region and a great starting point for exploring the temples.
We were very fortunate to take the time to wander through the streets of Siem Reap both day and night and delve into some of the great experiences it has to offer.
Super delicious $1 smoothies just outSide the market. 
Extra thin $1 pancakes made from a small ball of dough right in front of your eyes. 
Delicious restaurants. ..Mexican,  Italian,  Khmer, you name it, you can find it. ...so many culinary choices. 
Fried Ice Cream. Choose your flavour,  it's made right away. 
So good and so fresh.

Fish massage anyone?  We did all except David, because he had a cut on his foot.   The slogans are too funny.